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The Smith River in Montana. Some have heard of it, a lot of people haven’t. If you have, you know the deal. A limited entry permit is required to float the 59 miles form Camp Baker to Eden Bridge. You have about a 1 in 30 shot as an individual to draw a permit last I checked. A permit allows for 5 days and 4 nights of floating through a postcard picture of tree covered hills and white cliffs, with lots of wildflowers and a few trout thrown in.

This time around (we first floated in 2018, when I was lucky enough to draw a permit) we were invited to join in on a trip that someone else was lucky enough to draw on. So we made out way to Montana over the course of a couple days, raft in tow.

The first day started off overcast but quickly warmed up. We had good weather for *most* of the rest of the trip. Due to the overcast weather and early showers it seemed like the hatch was on and the fish were looking up. The beginning of the trip it is more like fishing a high mountain stream than a river, with lots of eddies and pockets to throw a dry fly at. This was definitely the best day for fly fishing on the trip, and since we didn’t have far to go we took our time catching a few. Rainbows and browns rose to whatever I seemed to tie on. This is the kind of day you dream about.

We spent the first night at Middle Indian Springs camp. Each campsite on the river is designated and assigned before you launch. This works well because there is no competition or race down the river. Leave each day when you want, take your time, do your thing and pull in knowing your camp is waiting there for you. This worked out great for us, adding several hours of fishing time to the trip down stream.

Day two we were headed to middle Cow Coulee. What the heck is a Coulee anyway? It seems like the map in this neck of the woods is covered in coulees. Turns out it is a deep ravine. One persons canyon, draw, gulch or arroyo may be a coulee, and if it is, it seems like the likelihood you are in central Montana is high. Middle Cow Coulee was covered in thistle. It was just begging for someone with a backpack sprayer to kill the dirty buggers before they bloomed. But three river staff passed by, no backpacks of Milestone along to get some noxious weed eradication done in this prime time to do it. Houndstounge is out there breeding unchecked as well. C’mon Montana, get it together and kill this stuff!!

Still, a beautiful spot to spend an evening watching the light on the cliffs and watching the river flow.

Day three on the river leads you to an encounter you don’t see on many multi-day river trips. A golf course. Heaven on Earth is the name of the place and the views live up to the name.

Now, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, or the club holder as the case may be. There were a couple along that had dollar bills clouding their vision, or expected some sort of Masters level green manicuring. To them I’d just have to say “Wake UP!”. I’ll leave it at that.

At the end of day three we were destined for the camp named Parker Flat. I know it doesn’t sound all that great. But, wow, what a setting. The only equivalent that came to mind was Yosemite Valley, but without the crowds and traffic jams.

Along the way there were sure signs of spring. Ducks, geese, deer. And the occasional fish and ancient rock art happened by as well.

The last day we were headed to Black Butte #1 camp. I wouldn’t recommend it. Kinda a steep carry, so we set up the kitchen right next to the boat. Especially hazardous if it is wet, due to the clay. Well, wouldn’t you know it, this was the night that it rained. Wait, not just rained, a torrential downpour with intense lightning lit us up right about dinner time. We weathered the storm and still had enough dry wood for some time around the campfire on the last night.

Then, before we knew it, our time on the Smith had passed. When will we draw that next permit? I have a hunch it just may be 2021, or it is a wish? We’ll see.

Until then, it’s just memories of fish, blue sky and white cliffs. What a special place.